Here is a link to the first drift chapter of a fictional book I am currently writing called "The testing of Erasmus Gielgud"
Below are a number of fashion and lifestyle articles I wrote for former online magazine fashion156.com between 2006 and 2007
by John Hoad. First 11.02.07
What am I going to wear for fashion week? As I write it is less than 5 days away. I’ve gone and left it too late. I am going to have to dig around in my wardrobe all weekend. God forbid that I don’t look fashionable. You've all seen "Ugly Betty" haven’t you?
One thing I learnt when I moved down to London is how to be inventive when it came to dressing. Long gone are the days when I would receive my monthly wage and all I'd have to give my mum was a couple of pounds and a kiss on the cheek. The times of blowing a month's pay on some McQueen or Galliano are gone. I am having to start the Dries Van Oxfam look.
Some
of the London Fashion Week crowd are supposedly like a pack of wolves
ready to rip you and your outfit to shreds (metaphorically, I hope). But
so far the people I have met haven’t been that bad. I am sure I'll be
o.k. in my second-hand finds. One thing about wearing vintage is no-one
else is going to be wearing the same thing (unless the donated clothing
was from twins). I also feel that there is a timeless elegance to
vintage and the fact that the clothing once belonged in the past makes
it even more appealing.
I am going to stick with my charity shop finds. It’s not like I have a choice anyway. The shows and parties can be a little pretentious (o.k. a lot) but they are enjoyable if you keep your feet on the ground. Many of the things people will be wearing will have been given to them anyway. I am going to wear my vintage black jacket that goes with anything. Funnily enough, there is a man in my local who still swears that it’s Dior. I think that the U.S. rock band, Queens Of The Stone Age, put it best when they named one of their songs “You Think I Ain't Worth a Dollar, But I Feel Like a Millionaire”. Now I am not suggesting that anyone thinks I am worthless but you can’t say that it isn’t a good title. It’s all a case of not what you wear, but how you wear it.
I am going to stick with my charity shop finds. It’s not like I have a choice anyway. The shows and parties can be a little pretentious (o.k. a lot) but they are enjoyable if you keep your feet on the ground. Many of the things people will be wearing will have been given to them anyway. I am going to wear my vintage black jacket that goes with anything. Funnily enough, there is a man in my local who still swears that it’s Dior. I think that the U.S. rock band, Queens Of The Stone Age, put it best when they named one of their songs “You Think I Ain't Worth a Dollar, But I Feel Like a Millionaire”. Now I am not suggesting that anyone thinks I am worthless but you can’t say that it isn’t a good title. It’s all a case of not what you wear, but how you wear it.
by John Hoad. First Published 29.1.07
It
is normal in the world of fashion for people to wear sunglasses at
night. Corey Hart even wrote a song about it in the eighties. There is
something enigmatic about someone in sunglasses. From Jackie O to James
Dean, sunglasses add an element of mystery and excitement. But at the
men’s fashion weeks for S/S 07 there was a more practical reason why the
fashion glitterati kept their Prada wraparounds on all week long. It
was the bright explosion of colours.
It
was like a fashion cannon had been set off in a Dulux factory. Jil
Sander, Burberry Prorsum and Prada chose bright acidic colours for their
clothing. Electric blue, sun bright orange and acid green were all
shinning bright on the catwalks along with gold’s and metallic. The vibe
is very modern and futuristic and the new wave of Club Kids around
London are really pushing the look. Check outwww,dirtydirtydancing to see what I mean.
Now
far from it for me to stray from my dandyish image and start to go all
Club Kid (I was there first time around, until they closed Gatecrasher
that is, then I awoke from my glow-sticked nightmare and went back to my
roll and rock) but I do like the idea. The trick to the look is to wear
clashing bright colours and metallics. I am not really going to go for
it head to toe but am going to buy things like the Jil Sander orange
short-sleeved shirt. I'll probably button it up all the way and dress it
under a black jacket with some clashing purple Dexter Wong jeans from www.twoseelife.com .
I am still getting involved but not being too much of a victim. As
always, I am sticking to my long held belief, which is to take the
current trends and work them into your own wardrobe. You don’t want to
end up looking like an extra from Tron. See you all at Boombox...
by John Hoad. First published 16.01.07.
For today's youth, dressing up never seemed so important. And it is not necessarily the buying of expensive designer gear or the latest pair of trainers either. In fact it doesn't even seem to be about spending great deals of money. It all seems to be in the time and effort which men are taking to present themselves. The devil really is in the detail. This is not the first time I have written about the “Dandyism” trend. And it is well known amongst my peers that I like to think of myself as one. Fashion, music, T.V. the chaps are all beginning to shun the modern day world with its chain coffee shops and flat-pack furniture and look to the finer things in life. Clothing, food, drink and male grooming are all values to which they (or dare I say we) hold dear. But anyone can wear a silk scarf. So how does one move from a Dandy to a Gent? Its all in the manners and behaviour.
They cost nothing and there are ten to which I always try to adhere:
•
Always let the lady order first at dinner, tell her she looks nice and
pay the bill. Women are terrible at taking compliments but they will be
terribly flattered.
•
Training shoes are for the gym and for the gym only. The younger gent
can get away with wearing converse. He has The Stokes to thank for that
one.
• Always iron your shirt and press your trousers and always see a trusted hairdresser.
• The suit jacket and combat trouser combo was officially made illegal somewhere at the start of 2001.
• Ignorance is never bliss. Read the papers. A true chap needs to keep abreast of current affairs.
• Try to avoid any food stuffs which say “oven ready”.
• Always open doors for people and give up your seat on public transport to those least able than you.
•
While it is perfectly fine for a Gent to "make merry" he should not get
too drunk as this is the way of the common thug. And besides, La Stella
Artois is a difficult stain to remove from ones dinner shirt.
Try
to adhere to these rules, they are not too hard to follow and no amount
of money can buy class. As Clarence Thomas, a Justice at Supreme Court
of the United States once said "Good manners will open doors that the
best education cannot."
by John Hoad. First published 16.01.07
“Congratulations on your new job. Welcome to the firm. I started here
when I was your age”. Just as you stretch your arm out to shake his
hand he spots it. It’s no use now. “Oh... err... I hope you settle in
well, err, and don’t be afraid of asking any, any questions”. Its no
good, he cannot stop staring at the cuff of your jacket. It is terribly
thread-bear and your hand sticks out too much. Well you have had it for
five years….
Buying your suit takes preparation. The key questions you should be asking yourself are..
• What is the work place like? Traditional and classic or young and directional.
• What is your budget?
• Off the peg or bespoke?
• Do you need shoes or do you own a good pair already? Your shoes and suit MUST match. (If you work in the media you’ll probably be wearing trainers, so ignore this point)
• What colours do you like? Navies, greys, browns etc ?
• Plain, checks or pinstripes ?
After deciding on these points you need to give yourself time. It is no good rushing around because you need to find the suit that is right for you. If you can afford it, go bespoke. This is where you visit a tailor and discuss the requirements of the suit and then you book a number of appointments and the suit is made for you and your body shape. The second option is an “off the peg” suit. This is where you visit a tailor and choose one of the ready to wear suits. There are a number of alterations that they can do to the suit, like taking up the trousers and taking in/letting out the waist etc so if are not “model size” you still can have a suit that is to your measurements. Have a look at www.savilerow.com for a complete list of tailors who can provide both bespoke and off the peg. Never compromise with a suit. A good one will last you years and will be the perfect attire for climbing corporate ladders....
by John Hoad. First published 8.1.07
By
now the sales will be in full swing. The post Christmas army of
shoppers will have cleaned out the stores like a plague of locust on an
African cornfield. Fights will have broken out, tears will have been
shed and clothing will have been ripped. It makes you wonder why people
bother. But to a seasoned sale shopper, there is method to this madness.
Sales
are great. Sales are useful. Sales mean that people who don't normally
buy designer clothing can have access to it. I have always believed in
variety in your wardrobe, mixing in designer with high-street and
vintage. Not everyone can wear designer head to toe andeveryone
can pay full price for it. Sales allow you to add a designer element to
your wardrobe, making your bank manger as happy as you will be.
First
thing to do is play the waiting game. Do not go in the department
stores for at least a week. I see it every sale time. People grabbing
everything like a bunch of looters. Endless queues at the fitting rooms
and tills. People everywhere. It’s like a scene from Dante’s Inferno.
Don’t do it to yourself.
Most
stores have “Further Mark-downs” meaning that the current season (AW06
in this case) will now go down even more after the first week or so. So
all the crowds that charged in at the start cleared it out a bit for
you. Now is the time to plan next season’s wardrobe and before you set
off, ask yourself what you really need? A new work suit, a new Jacket,
some vest tops? Look at www.men.style.com to see what is big for next season and what you can carry over. Don’t come back with a load of stuff that you will never wear.
I
always go for classics, never the trend led pieces. It is the start of
the season when you should have bought them, not the end. Dries Van
Noten, Martin Margiela and Vivienne Westwood always have pieces in their
collection that you mix with the seasons of the past. Also look for
John Smedley, Nigel Hall and Nicole Farhi for staple basics.
Take
time and think about what you are doing. Stay focused and avoid buying
just for the sake of it. And I will leave you with one last piece of
advice. Its called an under £25 pound rail for a reason. I have two
bright coloured shirts in my wardrobe that I will never wear. They still
even have their price tags on….
by John Hoad. First published 27.12.06
With
the nu rave look gaining momentum, the cool kids around the clubs of
London Town are looking towards a more classic edge to keep on top. They
have started off a trend that maybe better known for prom nights or
after dinner speeches: the wearing of cummerbunds.
Styles
in all colours and prints are finding themselves wrapped around the
waists of the young kids coming out of Old Street station. Even the
girls are getting in on the act, leaving the wide belts at home and
cinching in their waists with a vintage liberty print number from Camden
Market.
People
seem to be wearing the cummerbund mostly in an informal way, dressing
them with their jeans and vintage rock tees and then sticking a suit
jacket over the top. Others are choosing the slightly more formal
approach, adding a nice ironed shirt and a handkerchief sitting smartly
in their jacket pocket. But in all cases it is still worn over jeans as
the idea is not to look too dressed up. It’s a simple move that adds a
little sharpness to a outfit and I for one am always glad to see ideas
from the past mixed in with contemporary style.It
is the vintage cummerbunds that seem to be the most popular. They can
be found in vintage stores like Rokit or Beyond Retro, as well as the
markets around north and east London. And retailing at around a tenner,
it seems a small price for a bit of old world glam.
by John Hoad. First published 10/12/06.
Soho, London 1885. In a drawing room, on the first floor of a gentleman’s club, stands a small group of elegantly dressed men. They are all stood together, drinks in hand, laughing out loudly at each other’s witticisms and discussing the success of one of the men’s plays. The fire crackles and the young man behind the bar serves another round of ports. Suddenly the door opens and in walks an incredibly well presented man.
“James” shouts one of the men. “Thought you’d finally join us?”
The man takes off his dark green velvet tailcoat, with it’s sprinkling of snow, and hangs it with the rest of the equally luxurious coats. Turning around to face the group he reveals a beautiful liberty print silk cravat and matching handkerchief. “My god James, I wish I had worn that.” The man smiles "You will Oscar, you will".
The
dandy has always been a favourite look of mine. It has a true British
heritage that has inspired so many designers. The Dandy was first
spotted in the revolutionary 1790s in both London and Paris and they
flourished around the end of the 1800s. They had a love of fine
clothing, food and wine and had a highly sophisticated handle on the
queen's English. Their manners were impeccable and they really knew how
to address a lady. Anyone who broke the rules of etiquette was branded a
cad or bounder.
Today the look is a lot more modern. It can be worked into every day wear. Also now that it is the time of the Christmas party, so why not take some ideas from the Dandies of old? I for one am very fond of Handkerchiefs. They can instantly add a touch of character to a suit jacket. Also cravats and scarves add foppish, rugged charm to an outfit. 21st Dandyism can be spotted in the music scene. Look towards the Kaiser Chiefs, Franz Ferdinand and The Young Knives for examples, as well as the bands they "borrowed" their ideas from, like Pulp, Menswear and The Smiths.
Today the look is a lot more modern. It can be worked into every day wear. Also now that it is the time of the Christmas party, so why not take some ideas from the Dandies of old? I for one am very fond of Handkerchiefs. They can instantly add a touch of character to a suit jacket. Also cravats and scarves add foppish, rugged charm to an outfit. 21st Dandyism can be spotted in the music scene. Look towards the Kaiser Chiefs, Franz Ferdinand and The Young Knives for examples, as well as the bands they "borrowed" their ideas from, like Pulp, Menswear and The Smiths.
Skinny
ties, velvet jackets, corsages, tailcoats, medals, cummerbunds, it is
really about dressing up what you already have. By just accessorizing
you can tip towards the Dandy. So just spend a little more time and
money on an outfit for maximum returns. After all it was one of the
great Dandies themselves, Oscar Wilde, who said “Anyone who lives within
their means suffers from a lack of imagination.”
by John Hoad. First published 4/12/06
Denim never goes away. It has always had a cool factor which none of the other fabrics seem to possess. From a young James Dean in “Rebel Without a Cause” to a ripped jean wearing Kurt Cobain screaming at a bunch of grungy Reading festival goers, jeans have been the choice of the rebel youth. And one new trend which has sprung up around the gigs and clubs of London is red denim.
With its roots firmly set in the Art rock-punk movement of the early eighties, this is a trend which is full to its “two fingers pointing” brim with rock attitude. The skinny jean trend is still here, despite its recent over -exposure. But while fashion comes and goes, style will always remain.
The main compliment for wearing red denim is a rock attitude. Its not an easy look to pull off. If you do not feel confident, the look will just crumble, and your face will be as red as the denim you’ve wrapped your spindly legs in. The best way to wear it is to dress everything around it. Choose black or white shirts or t-shirts as red is a fiery customer who will not sit quietly with any other colour. Also a good look is black or white suit jacket for the real art school dropout.
Red denim can be found is stores such as Topman and All Saints, but the best on the market are Sweden based Cheap Mondays as they are a good cut and as the name suggests, the are cheap! You can pick these up from Urban Outfitters or buy them online from their website
The famous punk hang out “CB GB” in New York, may have closed its beer stained doors last week, but the punk’s style never goes down. As the old punk saying goes “It’s about being sixteen and saying no.”
by John Hoad, first published 23/11/06
In
a smoke filled room in London, somewhere near the start of the 80s, a
group of young punks stand, pints in hand, at the front of the stage,
sneering at a group of beautiful looking boys who are dressed to the
nines. The boys, lapping up the attention in their mum’s freshly stolen
eyeliner, earrings catching the lights, swap tips on where to buy the
best lace. The Jamaican boys, in ripped Bob Marley t-shirts and
dreadlocks; drink long and hard at cans of beer they have sneaked in.
The
lights fall and the room is plunged into darkness. “Come on then!”
shouts one of the crowd. A spot light illuminates a lone figure -
dressed head to toe in a Pirate outfit from a young upstart called
Vivienne - graces the stage. His face lights up and he appears to have a
white stripe across it. Smiling at the now growing hostile crowd, he
shouts out. “Stand And Deliver!” The crowd scream. Some one throws a
beer can towards the stage. It lands just by the singer’s feet. He looks
down and with the same smile raises his leg and kicks it back. And
there they see it, all slouched leather and buckles, the Vivienne
Westwood Pirate Boot.
Vivienne Westwood is a true national treasure. She is the loud, sneering, anarchic jewel at the top of England’s fashion crown. A real one-off, a real master of her arts. She takes the classics like Harris Tweed field jackets and John Smedly twin sets and puts them through the looking glass. But the one item which is a staple classic is the Pirate Boot, first seen at her A/W collection in 81, aptly titled “Pirate”. It soon became the boot of choice for the new romantic. It started of in squiggly patterned leather and then became available in a number of colours, mainly Brick Red, Beige Suede, Brown and Black. It has carried though the collections to the present day. Made to order from the boutiques, you can wait 4 to 5 long weeks for these swashbucklers.
My love affair with them started back just after the start of the 2000s in my home town of Leeds. The boots were really only reserved for the girls, but never ones for staying in our own gender issued straight jackets, we would often visit the Westwood boutique for clothing for the clubs. Anyhow, in the clubs we all frequented, it was hard to tell the boys from the girls. And in one club in particular, Pigs, you could not even get to use the boys toilets because they were all in there, trying to get to the mirror to reapply the lip-gloss.
My
first pair were brick red and my second were black and have worn them
both to death (I did buy a pair of the riding style boot ones but, along
with the much copied heeled version, I feel they are quite literally
stepping in the wrong direction). If only those boots could talk! Many a
tale of rock club toilets and open all hour petrol stations. I always
remember opening the boxes for the first time. The smell of the new
leather, the shine of the new buckles and the promise of good times. But
as with all treasured items, you need to look after them with care. And
do not make the same mistake that I made and wear them to see Slayer.
by John Hoad. First published 23.11.06
The rain is beating hard at my window. I am only just beginning to wake up. Glancing out my window, all I can see is dark cloud after dark cloud. The rain starts to get heavier, banging on the roof outside like a thousand little drummer boys. Jack Frost sits quietly at the end of my bed, staring at me, his icy breathe flowing through jagged teeth. I have about half an hour before I will have to start getting up for work. After the normal rituals of getting ready, the shower and brushing of my teeth comes the choosing of my outfit. Opening the badly painted doors to my wardrobe, I smile to myself. “Wait till they get a load of me......”
I have always been into fashion in a big way. Saving up for, or more likely getting into the red for, the latest designer garments. I spend my spare time searching high and low for vintage pieces to integrate into my wardrobe. I am also out twice yearly, sweeping the sales to pick up the pieces that no one got that season (both literarily and conceptually). But one of the things that always fascinates me is the sense of escapism which clothing can bring.
One school of thought on the idea, regarding retro styling especially, is that it is a backlash against today’s society. Do people want to go back to a simpler time? A more romantic time? A time like when my Father would work all week to buy a new suit so he could take my Mother out dancing? Or do people want to mfuture? To embrace tomorrow? Is this why we buy into fashion, for escapism?








.png)
.png)

.png)




.png)
.png)

No comments:
Post a Comment